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A recent trip to Nurnberg and Salzburg

Posted by Mat W on 12/30/2004 09:05:10 PM

I have just returned from a pre-Christmas break to Nürnberg and Salzburg with Claire and managed to visit a few new bars.

Nürnberg Pubs.

Thanks to Fred’s http://www.franconiabeerguide.com/ which was an absolute mine of information and will be invaluable to anyone going to the area.

I also stumbled across this gem http://www.landbierparadies.com/ . This is a pub company that have a policy of only dealing with tiny local breweries. I walked into the pub described below and found 15 new breweries from the Franconian area, and I have drunk a lot of German beer.

They have 4 pubs in the Nürnberg and one off licence near the Hbf, and one pub in Fürth which is a long way from the nearest station.

The pub always aims to have at least one barrel of beer on the bar at anyone time, plus a selection of 20 or so beers from other breweries in bottles. They also do very good, cheap food.

The pub I visited was the one at 26 Rothenburger Strasse and was 3 minutes walk from Plärrer tube station. We arrived on a cold snow night (it was blizzarding outside) and walked into one of the best pubs I have ever been to in Germany. They were advertising Meister’s beer as the Holzfässer beer on the blackboard outside, but that had gone and instead they had Reichold Dunkles on the go and that was followed by a Hartmann beer some 60 minutes later.

The pub has a large room at the front looking onto the bar with a couple of tables on top of large barrels so you can stand and sup, and the bar then opens out into a open plan area with table and chairs and lots of smoke! Service was as you would expect, brisk and efficient. Menus in German only but staff did speak some English. I was very impressed with this place and will definitely be going back and trying some of the other in the chain.

Beers and Breweries represented were (home town in brackets), Meisters Lagerbier (Unterzaunsbach bei Pretzfeld), Först Lagerbier (Drügendorf bei Eggolsheim), Penning Vollbier (Hetzelsdorf bei Pretzfeld), Sauer’Schuckla’ Rauchbier (Gunzendorf), Krug Dunkles Lagerbier (Breitenslau), Schroll Dunkles Vollbier (Nankendorf bei Waischenfeld), Gentner Pils (Wolframs Eschenbach), Schnupp (Altdrossenfeld), Neder Schwarze Anna, (Forcheim), Drummer Lagerbier (Leutenbach), Heldin Vollbier (Oberailsfeld im Ailsbachtal), Hoffman Dunkles Vollbier (Hohenschwärz), Pfister Weizen(Weigelshofen bei Eggolsheim), Ritter Dunkles Weizen (Nennslingen by Thalmassing) and Sonne ‚Eberwiesse’ (Ebermannstadt).

Now, doesn’t that want to make you rush off and try this place?

The waitress, who spoke good English, said that the beer range should be the same in each pub except the beer on draught, with only the draught beer varying each night.

There was also evidence that they have some beers in bottles that were not on the menu.

Landbier Paradies outlets. Opening hours available on the web site.

Off Licence on Schlossäckerstasse. Train one stop west to Stienbühl station. Street with shop on is immediately south of the railway line back towards Nürnberg Hbf.

Wodanstrasse 15. U1 or U11 to Maffeiplatz. Turn east into Gudrun Strasse and keep going. This street turns into Wodan Strasse after crossing the tram lines (line 7 & 9 which start outside the Hbf so you could get there this way as well).

Galvanistrasse 10. U1 or U11 to Maffeiplatz.

West out of station onto Schuckerstrasse, and 5th road to the left (Gouss Strasse). Galvanistrasse is the first road on the left.

Sterzingerstrasse 4-6. U1 or U11 to Frankenstrasse. East along Frankenstrasse and first right down Gotenstrasse, first left onto Innsbrucker Strasse and first left again into Sterzingerstrasse.

Rothenburger Strasse 26. Out of Plärrer U-bahnhof (U1, 2, 11 and 21) and head south along Rothenburger strasse. After passing some office blocks there is a church in a grave yard on your right and the pub is on the corner of the first street on the right.

Fürth – 100 Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse. WARNING> These details are off a street map of Nürnberg so beware. They have not been tried.

U1 or U11 to Fürth Stadhalle. Catch a 126 or a 171 bus towards Vach. The 126 goes west along Wurzburgerstrasse, then turns north up Vacherstrasse. It crosses over the end of Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse just before is goes under the railway. The 171 goes west along Wurzburgstrasse for another 700 metres before turning north up Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse. The pub should be where the two buses join up if the map on the web site is correct.

Whilst wandering around Nürnberg, between bouts of Xmas madness in the Christkindlmarkt and numerous cups of Gluhwein and buns full of Bratwürst, we stumbled across another cracking bar called Hütt’n on Burgstrasse (19). We were actually heading towards the Altstadthof brewery but had decided to go a round about way to it. I just happened to look at the notice case outside the bar and saw that it had a quite good selection of beers so we went in and emerged some 3 hours later somewhat the worse for wear having had about 8 or 9 in the pub, and been given a plastic bag full of beers from the cellar to have in the hotel later – Mess.

From the Markt stand with the large church behind you and head for the far right hand corner, head up the hill keeping the Rathaus to your right. Pass the Stadt museum and the Hutt’n is on the left.

Beers available were Rehbier Dunkles, Penning Zeissler, Bernreuther Kellerbier, Spalt Pils, Hoffmann Export Dunkles, Fischer Nürnberger Lagerbier, Friedels Zwickelbier, Meisters Vollbier, Neder Festbier, Penning Vollbier, Schenkerla Rauchbier, Pyraser Wiezenhell, Pyraser Landbier (hell), Gutmass Weizen (hell & dunkles), Fischer Rauchbier, and Neder Schwarze Anna. Seemed to be open all day but could not see opening hours anywhere.

Salzburg pubs.

It was bloody freezing whilst we were here, it being -15 one evening, so pubs hopping was okay as long as you didn’t have to far to go.

I used http://www.xs4all.nl/~patto1ro/salzburg.htm as my basic guide, but also accessed http://www.brauhaus-austria.com/skloane/ as part of the homework.

This was my first visit to Austria and I was pleasantly surprised at how different it was to Germany.

As luck would have it our hotel was 100 yards from the Weissbier Brauhaus and the ‘s Kloane Brauhaus (fancy that!!) and both were visited on the first night (unfortunately the Weissbier was shut! - Sunday).

Also visited were the Augustinerbräu Kloster Mülln (Augustinergasse 4) north of the Altstadt (in Mülln) which was excellent. A great baronial beer hall with beer served in large krugs (1/2 or a litre only). The write up in the guide above really does justice to the place, and yes there was a group of old grannies in furry hats in the bar, but they did not have litres of beer in front of them disappointingly. We left this until the last afternoon, and it was a mistake as I was not able to drink as much as I wanted as I was having to drive one we got back to Stansted later that night.

Weissbierbrauerie Bernd Tobsch. Rupertgasse 10.

A very relaxed place to have drink. I went late one night on my own and was suprised at how busy it was still. Service was quick and friendly and the staff were all able to converse in English. Despite the guide saying that there is only one beer available, I was able to sample the Bock, a Dunkle Weiss and a Hefe Weiss, all of which were superb.My only complaint was that the bar area was too smoky.

Zipferbierhaus, Haffnergasse 12.

Located in the middle of the Altstadt by the Kollegien Kirche, it was our first port of call on Monday after lunch. I was able to try the bock but found it, like many hell bock, too sweet and sticky for my liking. The bar was spartan but tidy and the service very fast.

Sternbrau. Griesgasse 23.

This place dominate the centre of a large part of the Altstadt north of the Staatsbrucke.

There are numerous rooms, restaurants, bars and corridors and it is very easy to get lost inside. We tried the bierstubl whilst we waited for the Braumeister Bier pub to open at 1700 and found both bars welcoming and friendly, if not a little quiet. As for the beer! I thought the Bock was passablem nmuch better was the unfiltered kellerbier in the bier pub. The Kaiser Doppelmalt (a dunkles) was a little too sweet for me, and the Edelweiss was passable.

The girl in the bier pub spoke excellent English and was able to answer all the queries I had about the local beer scene which was useful. We didn’t eat here so I can’t comment on the food, although what I saw looked excellent.

‘s Kloane Brauhaus, Schallmooser Hauptstrasse 27.

When we arrived it was snowing heavily outside and it was lovely to walk in through the door, push the curtain aside and walk into a wonderfully warm welcoming pub. The waiter was on us in a flash and although it took a while to get him to actually speak English (which was faultless), he tried to get us to order in German first, I think to see how good or bad we were. It was only after the second beer and a huge plate of food, that he came over and asked if everything was okay in immaculate English.

The two beers, were good but didn’t blow me away and I would not go out of my way to visit the place again, especially as the Weissbierbrauhaus is only 3 minutes walk away.

A recent trip to Nurnberg and Salzburg - Mat W, 12/30/04 09:05:10 PM
        Re: A recent trip to Nurnberg and Salzburg - Rich Link, 12/31/04 01:37:50 PM
        12 days and counting... - JezRauchbier, 12/31/04 09:14:32 AM
                Re: 12 days and counting... - Mat W, 12/31/04 06:08:23 PM
        I want to go to Nürnberg - now - Joris P., 12/31/04 06:23:41 AM
                No. Not a suasage, sorry...* - Mat W, 12/31/04 06:09:56 PM
                        Ah Ha!!!!!!! - Mat W, 12/31/04 06:15:31 PM
                                Re: Ah Ha!!!!!!! - Joris P., 12/31/04 06:43:23 PM
        Excellent write up Mat - Jeremy Gray, 12/31/04 02:55:00 AM
                Re: Excellent write up Mat - John White, 12/31/04 03:35:45 AM

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